Foraging for Invasive Purple Sea Urchins on California's Sonoma Coast with Chef Joseph Ogilvy

Condé Nast Traveler · 2026-10-28
Foraging for Invasive Purple Sea Urchins on California's Sonoma Coast with Chef Joseph Ogilvy

Chef and writer Joseph Ogilvy ventures into the intertidal zone of California's Sonoma Coast to hand-harvest purple sea urchins, an invasive species devastating local kelp forests. These urchins, prized for their rich, umami-packed roe, have exploded in population due to a combination of warming ocean waters and the decline of their natural predator, the sea star. By foraging these urchins, chefs like Ogilvy are helping to reduce their numbers and give kelp ecosystems a chance to recover. The article highlights the ecological urgency and culinary potential of eating this problematic species. As interest in sustainable seafood grows, purple urchin could become a staple on West Coast menus—turning an environmental threat into a delicacy.